The padlock that came with the gas cabinet. The padlock the previous tenant left on the garden gate. The tiny one from the discount shop on the storage room holding a few thousand shekels of tools. Most padlocks in Israel were chosen without a thought — and that is exactly what the thief counts on: bolt cutters, two seconds, and he's in.
After more than 25 years serving Beit Shemesh and the surrounding area, we opened a Locks & Security department with padlocks from Mul-T-Lock, Yale and other brands — and this guide walks through the five decisions that determine whether your padlock is an obstacle or a decoration: what you're locking, shackle thickness, shackle shape, the cylinder inside, and the hasp everything rests on.
The rule before everything: a lock is as strong as its weakest point
A padlock has four attack points: the shackle (cutting or sawing), the body (impact or drilling), the cylinder (picking or key copying) and the hasp — the loop the padlock passes through, screwed to the gate or door. A ₪300 padlock on a thin sheet-metal hasp with exposed screws is a ₪300 padlock you open with a screwdriver. That's why this guide has a section on the hasp, and why we always ask "what is it sitting on?" before recommending anything.
Step 1: What are you locking
- Garden gate, parking, roof terrace. Exposed to the street, the rain and time. You need a thick shackle (13 mm and up), a weatherproof body, and ideally a guard that hides the shackle.
- Home storage room, contractor's store, container. This is where the valuable property sits — tools, e-bikes, equipment. A 13–16 mm shackle, a cylinder with an owner card, and a heavy hasp.
- Gas, electrical or telecom cabinet, mailbox. Doesn't need to be huge, needs to be reliable for years — an 8–10 mm shackle on a quality lock.
- Bicycle and scooter. The lock matters less than the chain or bar: a 10–13 mm shackle and a hardened chain that can't be cut in seconds.
- Locker, suitcase, staff cabinet. A small lock, preferably keyless — a combination padlock saves you and the staff the whole key story.
Step 2: Shackle thickness — the number in the lock's name
On Mul-T-Lock padlocks the number is the shackle diameter in millimetres: C8, C10, C13, C16. And it is the most important number, because the most common tool for breaking a padlock is a pair of bolt cutters. An 8 mm shackle — household cutters. 10 mm — big cutters and effort. 13 mm of hardened steel — no longer a job for cutters; you need a grinder, noise and time. 16 mm — serious work most thieves won't start. Rule of thumb: anything facing the street or protecting valuable property — 13 and up. Anything inside the house or protecting cheap things — 8 to 10.
Step 3: Shackle shape — standard, raised or long
- Standard shackle (C1). The shortest and strongest — less exposed metal, less room to get a tool in. The default choice for a proper hasp.
- Raised shackle (C2). A little more height, for a thick hasp, a chain, or two parts that don't quite meet.
- Long shackle (C3). The most flexible — thick chains, gates with a gap — but also the most exposed to cutting. Take it only when there's no choice, and then in a large diameter.
And any model can take a shackle guard — a steel cover that hides the shackle and leaves the cutters nothing to grip. For a street-facing gate it's the best-value upgrade after the lock itself.
Step 4: The cylinder inside — and who can copy the key
A good padlock is really a good cylinder in a steel body. Mul-T-Lock padlocks carry the same cylinders you know from front doors — MTL400 for a good basic level, MTL600 with an owner card without which nobody copies a key, and MTL800 with three patented security systems. The full differences are in the comparison article. All Mul-T-Lock padlocks meet the European padlock standard EN 12320.
And the trick most people don't know: keyed alike. Order the gate padlock, the storage padlock and even the front-door cylinder on the same key — one ring for the whole house. Tell us when ordering; it's set at manufacture.
Step 5: The hasp — the point everyone forgets
A good hasp is made of thick steel, hides its screws when the padlock is locked, and matches the shackle diameter (a size-10 hasp for a C10, 13 for a C13, 16 for a C16). A hasp with exposed screws is dismantled with a screwdriver; a thin hasp is cut before the lock is. We carry Mul-T-Lock hasps in all three sizes, and if the gate or door is unusual — send a photo and we'll tell you what fits.
Outdoors: rain, salt and rust
A lock that stands outside for years needs a body that doesn't rust and a cylinder that doesn't seize. Mul-T-Lock padlocks are made for outdoor use; it's worth adding a rubber cover over the cylinder and a drop of light oil every six months. A cheap lock that rusts is a lock you won't open either.
Four mistakes we see every week
- An excellent padlock on a sheet-metal hasp with exposed screws.
- A long, thin shackle on a street gate — an invitation to bolt cutters.
- The lock that came with the cabinet, on a cabinet holding expensive equipment.
- Four padlocks, four different keys — and then one is left open because "I couldn't find the key".
Frequently asked questions
Which padlock for a garden gate?
At least a 13 mm shackle, a standard shackle or a shackle guard, an MTL600 cylinder or higher, and a matching hasp. For a gate on a main street — a C16.
Which lock for an e-bike?
A C13 padlock with a hardened chain, and lock the frame to something fixed. The chain matters as much as the lock.
Can I have one key for all the locks at home?
Yes. Keyed alike — several padlocks (and a door cylinder too) that open with the same key. Order it in advance.
I lost the key to the padlock. What now?
With an owner-card lock, a key is cut at an authorized point with the card. With no card and no key — a locksmith opens it and you replace it. One more reason to keep the card in the safe, not on the ring.
When is a cheap padlock fine?
When it locks something cheap: a locker, a bag, an inner cabinet. The moment there's equipment or access to the home behind it — a lock with a protected cylinder and a proper hasp.
The bottom line
What you lock decides the shackle thickness; where it sits decides the shape; the cylinder decides who copies; and the hasp decides whether any of it is worth anything. Ten minutes of decisions — and your padlock goes from one that says "there's something here" to one that says "go somewhere else".
Not sure which size? Send us a photo of the gate or door with the hasp on WhatsApp and we'll recommend the lock and the hasp. You can also call 02-9910450, or drop into the shop at 19 Yitzhak Rabin Road, Beit Shemesh. Straight advice, genuine products, and 25 years of serving Beit Shemesh.
Shop online: all padlocks | Mul-T-Lock C10 with MTL600 | Mul-T-Lock C13 with MTL800 | Mul-T-Lock C16 with MTL800 | the whole Locks & Security department
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